Now take a look at the colour of the transmission oil that came out.

The oil clearly hadn’t been changed for years and water had emulsified with the oil to make this yellow creamy fluid.  There was also half an inch of corroded aluminium deposits and dirt in the bottom of the oil reservoir.

The mixture of oil and water is caused by condensation forming in the transmission housing and then dripping into the oil reservoir and mixing with the oil.  This is the reason for regularly changing the oil even if the tractor isn’t been used for many hours a year (like many Fergusons that are owned by enthusiasts).  In fact the less the tractor is used, there is an argument for changing the oil even more often (due to the increased likelihood of condensation forming).

I have an MF 202 and Hydraulics do not work.

If I remove the standpipe cover oil flows out of the stand pipe but at no pressure what so ever (any position of the controls).Can you give me any hints to isolate the problem. Can I remove the side access cover and manually move the control lever ? Which way to rasie the lift ? How can I see if oil is blowing out of the pump releif valve. How can I check to control valves ?

Thanks
Rich
NY USA

Hi Rich,

You can remove the right hand side cover and take a look what is happening (DON’T PUT YOUR HANDS INSIDE WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING), you can control the pump with the quadrant levers when you do this (for safety) and make sure the levers are moving the linkage and control valve. On occasions it is possible to see an obvious leak, usually just an o’ring on the stand pipe but I have seen a split stand pipe before as well.

You say there is no pressure coming from the top of the stand pipe so that starts to narrow down the search for the problem. If the control linkages are operating the control valve OK then it could be the control valve which is worn (these are a very, very precision fit in the housing and must be near perfect otherwise oil will leak past it).

Or, presuming nothing is physically broken on the pump such as a yoke, then the pistons and cylinders could be badly worn and producing no pressure. Or the relief valve stuck open/broken (quite possible if you have a distinct lack of oil volume and pressure). Or last (but not least) there could be a problem with one or more of the valves. Oh, also there is the filter to consider, but unlikely to be causing those symptoms I think.

If the problem isn’t obvious from looking through the side cover then don’t worry. Just remove the top cover and pump as by instructions on the DVD and fully strip the pump. Inspect all springs, valve seats, pistons, cylinders, etc. Look for scores and grooves, check all o’rings. Take your time and inspect the components with a careful and critical eye. The fault will probably be quite obvious. A full pump refurbishment kit is not all that expensive, and probably worth fitting while you are in there if there is some general wear accross all the components of the pump.

Good luck

Steve + Ian

Hi Steve & Ian,
Looking at your hydraulics DVD I notice that, when installing the transfer pipe, Ian puts a strange looking white plastic washer under the O-ring of the stand pipe. I’ve never encountered this washer  before and wonder why Ian uses it.

Both your DVDs are absolutely wonderful and I never fail to recommend them to anyone who reads my webpage.

Per

Hi Per,

The washer is the original fitting. It is called the ‘backup washer’, made from nylon and in a spiral shape it goes in the o’ring groove behind the o’ring. Its function is to provide a soft edge for the o’ring to press against, rather than the o’ring pressing against the hard sharp edge of the metal stand pipe.

Thanks for the DVD recommendations you give. I also point people towards your site so they can read your information.

Steve

I have a MF35 tractor. The hydraulic lift pump seems to be operating slow when using the hydraulics to lift the ram on my tilt trailer. I have been advised to check the strainer. I was given a photo copie of the lift pump with strainer, but when I pulled off the side plates to look for it, the lift pump looks different and there is no strainer to be found.The photo copied info is for a MF 35 like mine.Is there any one that might know what I am doing wrong I would be grateful for any info. thanks.

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

The early tractors didn’t have a filter on the pump.

The next (easiest and least expensive) thing to check would be the o’rings on the stand pipe. There is a small cap under the seat (under front right hand side of seat). If you remove this cap there is a stand-pipe under there which you can pull out. Check the condition of the o’rings and replace if necessary – this is a common place for oil to leak. The stand pipe takes oil from the pump and up into the lift cylinder.

If that doesn’t help then you will probably have to remove the top hydraulic cover and take a look inside. There could be a whole host of reasons as to what is causing the problem. A faulty pressure relief valve is a possiblity, or otherwise the control valve or wear in the pump itself.

The hydraulic system is quite complex, but it is only a mechanical system, so anyone can refurbish the system.  It isn’t really possible to email you the details of what to do, as it is so complex, but if you need it then the Hydraulics DVD shows 2 hours of tutorials of what to do to get the system working as it should.

Steve (VTE).

The lift arms are dropping whenever he depresses the clutch pedal, here is what he says…

I enjoyed the MF 35 Hydraulics DVD. It is professionaly done and very informative. I’m wondering if you can help me diagnose a symptom that wasn’t discussed in the trouble shooting portion of the video.

The hydraulics on my MF 35 have been working well ever since I’ve owned it (about four years).  In the past, I could leave the arms in the raised position and for several days they would stay raised with very little down ward drift (I didn’t make a habit of doing this).  However, this spring when I first attempted to use the tractor (after it sat for three or four months), the hydraulics starting acting up.  Specifically, the lift arms would rise as they should, but as soon as I depressed the clutch (to put the tractor in gear), the arms drop (very quickly).  As soon as the tractor begins to move, they rise and assume the proper position.  Any idea where I should begin looking in the hydraulic system???  Is there a check valve in the hydraulic circuit that prevents  the hydraulic fluid from flowing out of the lift cylinder once the clutch is depressed?  If not, what prevents the the hydraulic fluid from flowing out of the lift cylinder once the clutch is depressed–the control valve?  I have a single stage clutch.
Yours,
Joe

Well Joe,

If the tractor has been stood for a few months and the symptoms have developed all at once then it is most likely just the o’rings on the stand pipe. Just remove the cap (front right hand side of hydraulic top cover, under seat) and pull the stand pipe out. Replace the 3 o’rings (1 under cap and 2 on stand pipe) and also preferably the back-up washers (nylon spirals).

It is obviusly a leak on the system somewhere, but the reason I suspect the o’rings is because they do not sit in oil and so may have dried out.

I think that will solve your problem.

Vintage Tractor Engineer