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	<title>Vintage Tractor Engineer &#187; Miscellaneous</title>
	<atom:link href="http://vintagetractorengineer.com/category/miscellaneous/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://vintagetractorengineer.com</link>
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			<item>
		<title>MF 135 Restoration DVD, PAL Format</title>
		<link>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/10/mf-135-restoration-dvd-pal-format/</link>
		<comments>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/10/mf-135-restoration-dvd-pal-format/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Oct 2009 19:31:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Vintage Tractor Engineer</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Miscellaneous]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://vintagetractorengineer.com/?p=1068</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This DVD is in PAL format, which means it will play in UK, Europe, Australia, New Zealand etc.





If your country operates the NTSC DVD format (USA, Canada etc.) then you should read the following information&#8230;

The DVD will play on a computer with DVD playing software (available free from the internet if your computer doesn&#8217;t have [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a title="Reborn Tractor, MF 135 Restoration DVD" href="http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/12/massey-ferguson-135-restoration-dvd/" target="_self">This DVD</a> is in PAL format, which means it will play in UK, Europe, Australia, New Zealand etc.</p>
<!-- AdSense Now! V1.90 -->
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</script></div><p>If your country operates the NTSC DVD format (USA, Canada etc.) then you should read the following information&#8230;</p>
<ul>
<li>The DVD <strong>will play</strong> on a computer with DVD playing software (available free from the internet if your computer doesn&#8217;t have the software).</li>
<li>The DVD <strong>will not</strong> play on an older style NTSC DVD/TV combination.</li>
<li>The DVD <strong>should</strong> play OK on a more modern flat screen TV/DVD combination.</li>
</ul>
<p><a title="Massey Ferguson 135 Restoration DVD" href="http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/12/massey-ferguson-135-restoration-dvd/" target="_self">Back to Massey Ferguson 135 Restoration DVD</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Refurbishing Tractor Front Wheel Spindles</title>
		<link>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/07/refurbishing-tractor-front-wheel-spindles/</link>
		<comments>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/07/refurbishing-tractor-front-wheel-spindles/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:07:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Vintage Tractor Engineer</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Miscellaneous]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[MF 35]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://vintagetractorengineer.com/?p=819</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello Steve,
How would I go about putting new bushes and thrust bearings in the spindles on my FE 35 Grey/Gold?
Thanks,Richard.

Hi Richard,
Jack up the tractor and put it on stands to make it safe. Front wheels off.
Bolt completely out of arm on top of steering spindles (that connects the long drag link). Next tap the steering [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>Hello Steve,<br />
How would I go about putting new bushes and thrust bearings in the spindles on my FE 35 Grey/Gold?<br />
Thanks,Richard.</p></blockquote>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vintagetractorengineer.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/mf35_front_axle.png"><img class="size-full wp-image-820  aligncenter" title="mf35_front_axle" src="http://vintagetractorengineer.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/mf35_front_axle.png" alt="mf35_front_axle" width="177" height="175" /></a></p>
<p>Hi Richard,</p>
<p>Jack up the tractor and put it on stands to make it safe. Front wheels off.<br />
Bolt completely out of arm on top of steering spindles (that connects the long drag link). Next tap the steering link upwards over the top of the spindles. Then remove the woodruff key. The spindles will then slide out of the bottom of the axle support.</p>
<p>The bushes can be tapped out by using a long drift. After cleaning up the axle support, new bushes can be fitted in (do not hammer them in, but rather press or pull in using threaded bar and a big washer). Remove the thrust bearings from the spindles. Check the<br />
spindles top and bottom for wear where the bushes run &#8211; the spindles can wear just as much as the bushes. Replace the spindles if necessary. The bushes normally require reaming using an adjustable reamer after fitting.</p>
<p>Check the operation of the grease nipple before lubricating and refitting the spindles. When refitting the top stearing arm, tap it down until end float on the spindle is removed.</p>
<p>Only specialist tool is the adjustable reamer.</p>
<p>Hope that helps.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>Steve (VTE)</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Towing Off</title>
		<link>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/towing-off/</link>
		<comments>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/towing-off/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2009 17:23:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Vintage Tractor Engineer</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Miscellaneous]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://vintagetractorengineer.com/?p=412</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The first thing to be aware of when towing off a tractor is that most machines with any hydraulic gear system (e.g. MF 165 with Multipower gearbox) cannot be towed off.
Tow at a reasonable speed on a firm road surface; not on loose surfaces such as gravel as they do not allow sufficient friction to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The first thing to be aware of when towing off a tractor is that most machines with any hydraulic gear system (e.g. MF 165 with Multipower gearbox) cannot be towed off.</p>
<p>Tow at a reasonable speed on a firm road surface; not on loose surfaces such as gravel as they do not allow sufficient friction to provide the turning power necessary. Only attach the chain on the towing tractor to an approved drawbar. Never attach to the top link position as this can flip the towing tractor.</p>
<p>Place the stop control lever in the ’start’ position, turn on the ignition if necessary and adjust the throttle to half open. Select the highest gear but keep the clutch pedal depressed until the towing vehicle reaches speed. Then release the clutch and after it has started depress the clutch pedal again. Have a good signal procedure between the two drivers so as not to run into the back of the towing vehicle.<br />
</br><br />
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		<item>
		<title>White Field Boss 2-45 PTO Problem</title>
		<link>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/white-field-boss-2-45-pto-problem/</link>
		<comments>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/white-field-boss-2-45-pto-problem/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2009 14:23:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Vintage Tractor Engineer</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Miscellaneous]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://vintagetractorengineer.com/?p=383</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a White 2-45 Field Boss tractor that is 1980’s era. 
The main drive clutch and the PTO clutch were replaced last year however the PTO still dosen’t work properly. It seems like the PTO hydraulic clutch pack is not engaging fulley. The PTO spins my tiller however when you put it under load [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a White 2-45 Field Boss tractor that is 1980’s era. </p>
<p>The main drive clutch and the PTO clutch were replaced last year however the PTO still dosen’t work properly. It seems like the PTO hydraulic clutch pack is not engaging fulley. The PTO spins my tiller however when you put it under load it just stops. Somtimes it engages and then peters out after 30 minuits of use. The drive gear is engaging properly, The hydraulic on off has been rebuilt however it seerms like it still has a hydraulic problem. I have looked over the manual and the only other thing I can check is the master control valve that is located under the rear differential top cover housing. This looks like it is a big job to do. I dont want to spend all the time to get to it, rebuild and reassemble to find out it is not the problemt. Can you shed any light on how I can trouble shoot before I go looking for that needle in the hay stack?</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Paul Manfredi</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi Paul,</p>
<p>I’m not familiar with these tractors. Is the hydraulic lift operating OK and/or does the tractor have 2 hydraulic pumps fitted? One for the lift and another to operate the pto clutch? What I’m thinking is that maybe the lift is working OK, but there could be another hydraulic pump to operate the PTO clutch.</p>
<p>If so, then it could be this pump which is not operating to full pressure. I guess the manual will tell you how to test this pressure. I would test the pressure both when the pto is engaged and also when it is not engaged. If the pressure tests differently when the pto is engaged to when it is not engaged then this would suggest that there is a leak in the clutch pack or the oil pathways to it. If the pressure tests the same for both tests, but is out of the manual’s specified pressure then it is the pump or a leak in the system. If the pressure tests the same for both tests, but is within the manual’s specified pressure, then it would suggest a problem with the firction plates or set up of the new clutch pack. It could be that it is just not adjusted correctly.</p>
<p>You say that the pto runs OK and then peters out after 30 minutes.  This could suggest a hydraulic problem somewhere in the system which gets worse as the oil warms up.</p>
<p>The only thing I can think is that maybe a seal on the cylinder that operates the pto clutch has been damaged when it was fitted.</p>
<p>The Vintage Tractor Engineer.</p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p><strong>Comments&#8230;..</strong></p>
<p>1<br />
Mark says: </p>
<p>December 6th, 2008 at 1:59 am<br />
Does this tractor have an internal overrunning clutch? I just finished one that had the same type problem. The clutch is in the very bottom of the transmission where the PTO shaft travels thru the transmission. I have pictures of what you are looking for if that will help.</p></blockquote>
<p></br><br />
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		<item>
		<title>TVO</title>
		<link>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/tvo/</link>
		<comments>http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/tvo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2009 14:15:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Vintage Tractor Engineer</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Miscellaneous]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://vintagetractorengineer.com/?p=379</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Owners of vintage tractors have been unable to purchase tractor vapourising oil (TVO) since 1974, when commercial production ceased. The only option has been for owners to mix their own (kerosene, petrol and diesel in differing quantities depending on your recipe). As kerosene is a rebated fuel, it has made it illegal to use the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Owners of vintage tractors have been unable to purchase tractor vapourising oil (TVO) since 1974, when commercial production ceased. The only option has been for owners to mix their own (kerosene, petrol and diesel in differing quantities depending on your recipe). As kerosene is a rebated fuel, it has made it illegal to use the fuel on public roads. Technically it has also been illegal to use the tractor on private land (running on TVO) if it is also registered for use on the road.</p>
<p>HMRC have issued guidance on this issue:-</p>
<p>“HMRC have agreed to issue a General Licence under regulation 43 of the Hydrocarbon Oil Regulations 1973 to enable individual owners to mix the rebated kerosene with other road fuels for use in vintage tractors constructed before 1960. The rebated kerosene may be obtained from Registered Dealers in Controlled Oil in the normal manner. Rebated gas oil, ‘red diesel’, may only be used in the mixture if the tractor is performing bona fide agricultural, horticultural or forestry work pursuant to the Hydrocarbon Oil Duties Act 1979, Schedule 1 section 2.</p>
<p><strong>The concession is subject to :</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Mixing will only be permitted in the fuel tanks of the vehicles concerned.</li>
<li>The mixed fuel is not to be used in any other vehicle.</li>
<li>The fuel must not be mixed in bulk for resale.</li>
<li>Any breach of the terms of the licence may constitute an offence.”</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Remember</strong>, bona fide agricultural work excludes social, domestic and pleasure activities such as rallies, shows, ploughing matches or road runs. Your fuel oil supplier may wish to see your licence before they deliver kerosene.</p>
<p><strong>Vintage Tractor Engineer recommends</strong> pouring the individual components into the tractor fuel tank and then relying on natural turbulence to complete the mixing &#8211; this is the safest way to blend the fuels. It would seem that “tractors constructed before 1960? includes tractors manufactured after that date provided that the model was introduced prior to 1960 (eg. a 1961 Massey Ferguson 35 TVO, as the model was introduced before 1960).</p>
<p><strong>Related information&#8230;..</strong></p>
<p><a title="Making tractor vaporising oil" href="http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/mixing-tractor-vaporising-oil/" target="_self">TVO recipes</a>    </p>
<p><a title="Vaporising oil FE35, correct thermostat?" href="http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/ferguson-fe35-vaporising-oil-correct-thermostat/" target="_self">Ferguson FE35 Vapourising Oil, thermostats, jets and identification</a></p>
<blockquote><p><strong>Comments&#8230;</strong><br />
1<br />
Alan Coutts says:</p>
<p>February 5th, 2008 at 8:34 pm<br />
Could someone help me please. I have just purchased a 35 petrol/tvo and now got it running on petrol. What mix would I use in the other tank (kerosine/petrol?) Thanks</p>
<p>2<br />
The Vintage Tractor Engineer says:</p>
<p>February 7th, 2008 at 4:37 pm<br />
Hi Allan,</p>
<p>FOFH give some good guidance on mixing TVO. This is what they say….</p>
<p>There must only ever be 2 ingredients in TVO</p>
<p>1. Petrol (unleaded is absolutely fine for a Ferguson tractor) 98 Octane.<br />
2. 28 Second Heating Oil 20 Octane.</p>
<p>Aim for an Octane value between 55 and 70.</p>
<p>55 if doing very hard work<br />
70 if doing topping and the like<br />
To give you some idea of the sums:-</p>
<p>1 part petrol and 1 part heating oil comes out at 59 Octane.<br />
2 parts petrol and 1 part heating oil comes out at 72 Octane.<br />
1 part petrol and 2 parts heating oil comes out at 46 Octane.<br />
Petrol on its own is suitable for road runs (with the heat shield removed).</p>
<p>Octane is not the only factor, but it provides a good guide.</p>
<p>Diesel fuel is designed to cause ignition by compression and will encourage pinking. It is not designed to burn in TVO tractors, and no upper cylinder lubricant is required in these tractors, so do not use anything other than petrol and heating oil.</p>
<p>Using fuel which does not burn completely will destroy the lubricating properties of the oil and that (in a Ferguson TE tractor) will result in wear to the cam shaft bushes and then loss of oil pressure from cam shaft bushes. Loss of oil pressure will, then result in damage to the crank shaft. Lubricating oil in a TVO tractor’s engine should be changed according to the Tractor Instruction book.</p>
<p>3<br />
GasiousClay says:</p>
<p>March 18th, 2008 at 7:59 pm<br />
For those of you who don’t know, tractor vaporising oil (or TVO) is a fuel for internal combustion engines, produced from paraffin (kerosene). In the United Kingdom and Australia, after the Second World War, it was commonly used for tractors until diesel engines became commonplace. In Australian English it was known as power kerosene.</p>
<p>4<br />
alan says:</p>
<p>April 19th, 2008 at 7:09 am<br />
Hi,<br />
I am slightly confused . Is kerosene actually paraffin or a derivitave of it. I thought that paraffin was still readily available in the UK?</p>
<p>5<br />
Bob says:</p>
<p>August 16th, 2008 at 3:15 pm<br />
hi, does anybody now the timing order for a ferguson te20 tvo??!!</p>
<p>6<br />
The Vintage Tractor Engineer says:</p>
<p>August 21st, 2008 at 5:39 am<br />
Bob,</p>
<p>Do you want the firing order? The TED firing order is 1,3,4,2. This covers all versions of the VO engine.</p>
<p>Steve.</p>
<p>7<br />
mark chapman says:</p>
<p>November 24th, 2008 at 8:17 am<br />
Anybody out there able to help, I live in Deal, Kent. I cannot seems to be able to buy small amounts of 28 sec heating Oil, I only need between 20 &#8211; 50 litres at any one time, this will last best part of a year !!! all the suplliers here deliver a minimum of 205 ltrs or 500 litres. This high quantity shall go off before I get half way through it. Anyone able to help. thanks Mark.</p></blockquote>
<p></br><br />
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