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Kevin Mordasky wrote:
I have an MF135D Massey ferguson. It has a two stage clutch with 9″ & 11″ Discs. I know the 9″ disc clearance is .090″ and only need a feeler gauge. Adjusting the 11″ disc requires splitting the tractor. I have the factory manual and it shows how to make a gauge for the larger version of the clutch but not this one.
I need to know were I can buy the correct gauge or find the dimentions so I can make one.
In short I don’t know where to suggest to get the info.
What I do know is that on the MF35 it also has 9″ and 11″ clutch plates. The 11? clutch is operated by coil springs and the 9″ pto clutch is operated by a belleville washer. For the MF35, the setting for the 3 clutch release levers which operate the 11″ clutch is (measured from the face of the spacer ring segments) 2.65ins – 2.72ins (67.31mm – 69.1mm). Variation in lever height must not exceed 0.015in (0.381mm). The bridge tool for this setting is (lever fulcrum height setting guage Tool MF20).
You may be able to get the tool from your MF dealer, otherwise I would suggest making your own tool.
Hi, I have a MS135 and my clutch is not disconnecting when I depress the clutch pedal? Just happened out of the blue as the last time I use the tractor it operated fine. The weather is cold here and I have been use my tractor to plow snow. Thoughts????
I just bought a MF 133, I’m verry happy driving an using it, but i have a big problem, I can’t shift gears without noise, I think I have problems with the clutch. I get this noise also when I’m stooped. Please help me with some advices, I already adjusted the pedal but no result….The PTO works fine.
I have a MF 271 and the clutch adjustment finger bolt are ground off by the though out bearing. What size are the bolts and wrench size for adjustment?
I have a 165 split right now, pto clutch would not engage without grinding gears. Made all adjustments pushed tractor back together and the throwout bearing would not contact fingers on the clutch. Split it again, pto adjustment was not the same as before I pushed it together, and if I turn out bolts on the fingers any more there is only two threads inside the the fingers and that doesnt seem right. all disks are new should I just put longer bolts in the fingers
i forgot to tell you how to adjust the pedal dissconect the pedal linkage then lossen the bolt holding the arm on the shaft going into the transmission take a punch and put threw the hole in the end of the shaft using the punch rotate the punch clockwise until you feel the resistance of the bearing contacting the release fingers of the clutch using your hand holing it in this position ajust the arm so that there is one eight in between the tnasmission and the arm tighten the bolt no you ready for the linkage hold the pedal all the way up i use a bungy cord then ajust the linkage so you can just get the pi threw the to hole of the arm now put the pin back in if you did this right when you push the clutch pedal with your hand there should be one eight between the arm and the transmission when you feel contact
you should always start buy ajusting the pedal first because if its out of ajustment the the release bearing is not going to push the release fingers of the clutch far enough to dissendage the secondarie clutch if after doing this you still cant dissengage the secondarie clutch pull the cover off the bootom of the transmission there are three ajusting bolts on the secondarie clutch the head of the bolt to the cover should be .080 massey says bt .060 is better trust me to adust them just loosen the locking nut and screw in or out to ajust gap do all three tighten locking nuts and recheck gap if its good close up the cover and try it out i have a 165 with indusrial loader on it and it worked for me
MINE IS EXACTLY THE SAME
Hi, I have a MF 165 the clutch does not disengage on the PTO but the clutch for the gears works fine. There is quite a lot of play on the pedal over 2 inches. I can ajust up the pedal and this might solve the problem but I am worried if I do this something might slip off inturnaly effecting the clutch for the gears and I can live without the PTO cluch having to stop the engine and engage the PTO the odd time I use it (eg a vacum tanker).
Any Help/advice, Bob.
I have actually got a broken bolt on the end of one of the clutch fingers on my 35 with dual clutch. Anyone got any ideas where i can source another one???? Help,,, i’ve got mountains of work to do!!!
I am having trouble getting my 35 into gear & also engaging PTO. Its a 1957 grey copper 35, dual clutch. I’ve tried the free-play adjusting but still the same. Is there anything else i can try???
If clutch is kaput,, what parts will i need to mend it & do you know any good cheap places for Ferie’s???
Many thanks indeed
Yes the systems are different. There are also 2 different systems fitted to 135’s.
The method of operation is very similar, so the info you have from the MF35 Hydraulics DVD will give you a good idea of what to do with the pump etc.
The major difference are the control levers and set-up. If it is just weak at lifting then if you just look at the pump, cylinder, stand-pipe seals then that will be a big help to you.
The main thing you need to be aware of is when removing the top cover. Before you can do this you need to remove the right hand side plate and take out the roller from the control valve actuating lever, otherwise it won’t come apart.
Hi, is the hydraulic system in a MF 135 the same as the 35? I bought your hydraulic repair dvd for the 35, and just wondered if there are any differences between both of them.